Throttle body tuning

Ok
Today I tried again and I closed the idle screw, and idle sets to little above 1000 rpm. I noticed that acceleration cable was too tight, and throttle wasn't fully closed
ISV dosen't work properly because when I unplugged it the idle is perfect. New ISV will arrive next week.

I still wonder about the potentiometer. What is the benefit if the car runs perfectly with out it?

p.s thanks for the tips

i dont know why it is working ok without, but i have an extra compi throttle, and i will try to open the box, to see if it regulates the inmpendance or it just replaces the idle and wide open throttle switches.

NEWS!

In the last week i was thinking how could i attach the potentiometer of the original compi throttle body to the 5 cyl throttle. the box is too big to install under the 5cyl throttle body, because i have the 5 cyl exhaust manifold, and installing it on top would take some mechanism, so it turns the right way around.

I could not find a fast solution for it, so i decided to sacrifice a potentiometer, so i planned to open it up, and see if the mechanism inside could be modified to fit on top of the throttle body...

but then i opened it...




THERE IS NO POTENTIOMETER!!!!

there is the idle switch, and for the WOT (wide open throttle) two pieces of metal just touch each other.

this is a really retarded design, totally useless, and very deceiving.

so bottom line is, the 5 cyl throttle body with 3 pin connector and so with 2 switches (WOT on top, idle on bottom) will work PERFECTLY on our engines!

this is the throttle body i use





i have modified it, so in the place of the idle screw there is the pipe that goes to the airbox.

iv choosen this throttle body because it has the less springs and mechanisms on the bottom, so it is far from the exhaust manifold.

the bad point of this throttle body is that it has no damper, so when you release the gas pedal, it closes the fuel very fast, and if you want to accelerate fast, this is quite bad, as you really need to keep the gas pedal pressed when shifting gears. i will try to add the damper to it. as it keeps the throttle open for a little time.

the throttle on the left is the 5cyl engine with 2 switches that works pefectly for cars with stock exhaust manifold, just plug and play.



you can see how much more air flow capabilities it has compared to the stock throttle body.

i think because of more air getting in the engine, it would be good to reset the injection to a little more fuel.

this is the interior of the "potentiometer"


Idle position
you can clearly see the grey idle switch in the top right corner, you can see the crome brace touching the micro switch.



WOT position
bottom right you can see thw copper contacts touching each other

MYTH BUSTED!

Hello,
I replaced the ACE's tb to the NG's tb.
Conected ISV car wond work. It s like wrong air/fule mixture. Car works like Subaru.
But unplugged ISV car works well but idle is about 1500p.
What can be the problem?
Sorry about bad english.

hello.

first of all i would suggest you post a pic of the throttle body, because the NG had different TB`s.

the first thing i would check is if the idle switch works, and if it is turned on when you release the throttle,maybe it is set wrong, or maybe your throttle cable is too tight, and doesent allow the TB to fully close, like it happened to our friend harhamo on page 2 in this thread.

second thing, did you connect the vacuum pipe right? no leaks?

this is how i have the cable set on my compi. maybe you wont need to set is so furter to the right, as my TB is heavily modified from 3 different TB`s because of the exhaust manifold.



just be sure the cable is not tense when the pedal is released, and that the throttle body triggers the idle switch. you can clearly hear the "click" when it does, so it is easy to know. (with engine turned off).

I use this trottle.

damn, this is not the throttle body you want, because it has no wide open throttle switch on top.

this is the throttle body i used before my current one:









this is the WOT switch



this is the idle switch



the throttle damper is missing, and also the throttle cable lead on top is missing...

Great.
Looking for the right TB then.
But in your pictures ther is small pipe. This will by open?

that pipe should be blocked.

in your pic i see your TB doesent have the wide open throttle switch. it will work, but at full throttle you will be lacking fuel...

today I replaced my ACE TB to NG TB too how to minimise idle rpm to 1000? now I got about 1200rpm at idle.

accelerator cable is not tight, vacuum pipes are connected right too what could be plugged incorrect?

P.S. with this modification car feels lighter at least 100kg

Guys at replacement of a throttle I have understood greetings that it is necessary following to make -
To replace a throttle from 2,3 is more exact NG.ARR.NF.RT.
To muffle 1 tube on a throttle 2.3
To adjust idling. By means of the screw on a throttle but about the beginning to warm up the engine to working temperature of 90 degrees
Idling should be from 800 to 1000 turns in a minute

Alexandr Burmistrov wrote:Guys at replacement of a throttle I have understood greetings that it is necessary following to make -
To replace a throttle from 2,3 is more exact NG.ARR.NF.RT.
To muffle 1 tube on a throttle 2.3
To adjust idling. By means of the screw on a throttle but about the beginning to warm up the engine to working temperature of 90 degrees
Idling should be from 800 to 1000 turns in a minute

Hello,
own for some time a Comp.

Have also changed the NG throttle.
However, without the grinding work.

But now the problem that hangs the idle at 1100.

The choke plunger I have already expanded.

Where can I find this screw, which speaks of?
Or is that the choke plunger.

If so, where is my problem?

greeting
muffle

Sorry, for the bad english

Not on all this screw is! On RT at me was and here on NG there is no it.
I can advise to adjust the screw of full closing
It to be from above on a body, with a nut
I too badly understand on English

Still I wish to add that bolts of fastening a body too the different. On the expert they long and on 2.3 short

Hello,
today read without errors.
LLR - interference by Plus.

What does that mean?

Because when the engine is running, and I disconnect the plug from the LLR, if the speed falls to 200

Control unit defective?